Japan : Tokyo, Kawagoe, Nagano, Matsumoto, Hakuba, Osaka, Kyoto-Mount Inari & Nara
Winter 2023
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| Day 11: On the Mount Inari hike trail. (Record: 1:36H-top; 4.5 km, 12000 steps, 10000 torii-gates) (jan, feb-2023) |
Journal Entry... Cheers! to a post-pandemic travel reboot out of the country. Slowly, but surely. Must I add, safely? With or without mask, we take flight to Japan.
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| Tokyo, 2023 |
Arrived Narita. Narita Express (NEX) train to Shinjuku station. Check-in: Hotel Century Southern Tower, Rm. 2866. The Shinjuku Southern Terrace up front draws in night strollers for the tree-illumination in the area. Rm. 2866 which was on the farthest end of the hallway offered the grand westside views of Tokyo high up on the 28th floor. Hotel's corner rooms have the nicest views, in fact, which I always look forward to on every possible stay at the hotel-- close to 10x already. Thanks Century Southern for always assigning the corner room for us. As I approach our appointed room, I still allow myself to be surprised as to my expected hotel room view. Night, and day. Day, and night. Hotel lobby was on the 20th floor to begin with.
January 31, Tuesday: Day 2. Revisiting old familiar cravings. Ebi tempura-meal set for me at a Takashimaya department store restaurant, which happens to be just a footbridge away from the hotel. Tsukemen-a ramen for the hubby at Fuunji, a good two or three blocks on hotel's backside, and also walking distance. That first night, I gave the claw machine at Game Taito, in the Shinjuku area, a try. All for "Curious George!" that caught my fancy. How many attempts did I make? Never give up, patience is a virtue, watch travel vlog>>>
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| Kawagoe, 2023 |
February 2, Thursday: Day 4. Ginza. Hubby would continually search for the missing "SwatchxOmega's Mission to the Moon"-watch. Similarly, the Swatch pop-up store at Ginza had none of it. What it had, instead, was a "SwatchxOmega's Mission to the Sun"-watch. It's bright, yellow face, smiling up at me from its nest box. Wait a minute! I had no intention of adding a third Omega to my watch collection. Two formal, dress Omega auto-watches are enough for me, my left wrist can only wear a watch at a time. Besides, the Omega watch collaborating with Swatch? It was like a toy-watch. But... BUT... this ongoing search by the hubby for missing missions overtook my self-restraint. "Mission to the Sun" sounded like some unique mission lording over all other missions. Swatch salesclerk clinched on his sales talk, "There's only 1-in-stock." Hubby joined in, "Bilihin mo na!" With all that talk, I fell victim to my long-cured impulsive buying syndrome. Swiped my credit card. Thinking ahead I could re-sell the watch for profit later, if it was so much in-demand, watch travel vlog>>>
February 3, Friday: Day 5. Shinkansen-bullet train to our next destination city: Nagano, from Tokyo Station. "Fur & boots" was the desired attire. Winter in Nagano was biting cold.
Walked to the hotel from Nagano Station, hubby hauling both our luggage. Some 5-minute walk... Check-in: Chisun Grand Hotel. It was past 3PM, and hubby and I were hungry. I prepared a checklist of Nagano's local foods and delicacies, but all food sources happened to converge in, and around the Nagano station. [facepalm to walking]
My Foodie Checklist:
1. Udon-thick noodles in broth, paired with deep-fried ebi (shrimp) tempura, at Sanuki Udon Hanamaru.
2. Sauce Pork Loin Cutlet at Meijitei Restaurant.
3. Sanzoku-Age Fried Chicken at the same Meijitei Restaurant.
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6. Spicy Miso Ramen at Ramen Misoya.
Add, a selection of sweet treats sold at Ringonoki Patisserie. Noa Noa Shinano cake with walnuts & almonds; Apple pancake; Apple sable; and Apple pie filled with seasonal Nagano apples. Yup! All apple-based dessert in the apple town of Nagano.
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| Matsumoto, 2023 |
Matsumoto Castle is one of five castles in Japan designated as a National Treasure. The castle structure is made up entirely of wood, its pillars made of hemlock, cypress & pine. "The castle's beauty awes visitors throughout the seasons." Imagine... the summer greens, the fall colors, the winter scene, and the spring blossoms... surrounding the castle. "In spring, the cherry trees around the moat create tunnels of flowers."
So-called staircases to every floor inside the castle are actually ladder-like. It rises up to a steep incline, which most definitely are not for senior citizens to hurdle. You climb up the staircase-- steep, and narro, and slippery, and cold to the feet --either wearing socks, or barefoot. By the 4th and 5th-floor staircase, these incline at 40 degrees! Visiting grandmothers and grandfathers seen climbing up those steep stairs was enough motivation for me. Hubby complained, "It pains my feet to step on it." Half-way through the hurdles, hubby was hurrying to exit the castle.
"The topmost floor-- the 6th floor -- of the tenshu (Donjon Tower) was used as a borou, a watchtower for enemies during wartime." North, south, east, and west views from safely-screened openings. On the ceiling of the Donjon tower, the god named "Jijuroko-ya-shin,"-god of 26 nights who protects the Matsumoto Castle, is revealed.
On the way down, one is treated to a final scenic view-- a "Moon-Viewing Wing" where one gazes up to the moon. As hubby was in a hurry, we get down to the moon-viewing wing on still bright outdoors. Accordingly, only two castles Japan's list of castles have a moon-viewing wing: the Okayama castle, and the Matsumoto castle, aptly taking on a reference to the city where the castles are built.
Frogs here, there and everywhere is also most prevalent in the city of Matsumoto, specifically in Nawate street. A frog-themed street. "This street is an old-fashioned alley, lined with a variety of fun shops, and is loved for its nostalgic and festive atmosphere. You will find plenty of Japanese food to indulge as well." We stopped by went for a quick bite. Karaage (deep-fried chicken) for the hubby, and a fish-shaped America dog (waffle dog) for me.
What's the story of Nawate street? One time, a strong typhoon hit the city of Matsumoto. The Metoba river overflowed. Nawate street went under the flood. But, Metoba river happened to have resident frogs. And so, the frogs hopped, and leaped to higher ground, upstream, and never returned. Nawate street was since dedicated into a frog street as beacon to its former resident frogs to return back to their Metoba river home.
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| Hakuba, 2023 |
February 5, Sunday: Day 7. I awake to a snowy morning in Nagano. Snow is significant for today's snowmobile activity in Hakuba. The Japanese alps is living up to its winter promise. A snow-filled day means, "Snowmobile fun ride for two!" c/o Lion Adventure Hakuba. The snowmobile adventure took 1-hour, for 10000-Yen, per person. What's one comfort meal to cap a snowmobile ride, returning later to Nagano?
My Foodie Checklist 6. Spicy miso ramen at Ramen Misoya, located a pedestrian crossing away from Nagano station. Where most Nagano locals eat, and tourists alike, one will never go wrong. What flavorful soup base, I reacted. Because the ramen ingredients were sauteed to sweat out their umami flavour.
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| Nagano, 2023 |
February 6, Monday: Day 8. Visiting the Zenkoji temple. "Zenkoji temple was built in the 7th century, and around it, the city of Nagano was born. Zenkoji translates to temple of benevolent light."
12:54PM, start point at Lawson. Wooden lanterns line the road, also serving as guides/markers, to Zenkoji temple. There are "47 lanterns" that light the pathway to the temple. In mid-February, the city of Nagano holds a lantern-light festival, that is, to commemorate the 1998 Winter Olympics that was held in Nagano. This year, 2023, it was happening in five days. But, I will not get to see it, it being our last day in the city.
Distance to Zenkoji temple was about 2 to 2.5km, which they say takes 30 minutes on foot. It took me 1 hour... after making stopovers at Mos Burger for lunch, and Arteria Bakery for dessert. Nothing wrong with a leisurely pace, this is how one should walk to the Zenkoji temple, especially during Nagano's cold winter, and sunny day. Unlike Tokyo, the city of Nagano is laid-back, which I'm beginning to adore.
2:01PM, reached Niomon gate, Zenkoji temple's first gate. It is guarded on the right by "Ungyo," and on the left by "Agyo,"-statues. After Niomon gate came the Nakamise Dori-temple shopping street. Hungry? There's always food available along the way to the temple, don't worry. As every temple visit in Japan must include a food trip-for-the-road. There were a number of eateries, as well as souvenir shops. Hubby remarked why everything he saw back in Kawagoe, like kamote, pudding... are being sold in Nagano, than Nagano delicacies.
There was an "old man statue" inside the Zenkoji temple. Every temple goer went about rubbing their hands all over the old man statue. Rub-rub-rub... old man's head, before rubbing their own heads; old man's eyes, before rubbing their own eyes; old man's belly, before rubbing their own bellies... It took a visible toll on the wooden statue, the wood material had quite faded in time. Poor old man statue. The old man statue's body parts are supposedly rubbed to coincide with a temple goer's own body parts that needs healing. "The Healer" is how the old man statue is called.
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| Osaka, 2023 |
February 7, Tuesday: Day 9. Transit Nagano to Osaka via Kanazawa. 10:47AM, Shinkansen departure. Rushed to Nagano Station, still on foot, with barely 15-minutes to spare. Hubby was his usual self, "salamander-ing"-jittery, lol. Shinkansen's route: Nagano-Kanazawa, connecting at Kanazawa-Osaka. 14-Day JR Pass was now on its 8th day of use; we began tapping it on Day 2. Shinkansen (Nagano-Kanazawa), and Thunderbird-express train (Kanazawa-Osaka), were both on schedule. Travel time was close to 5-hours combined, till the final stop at Shin-Osaka station. In Shin-Osaka, we reverted to our circa 2014-Suica Card to ride the subway/metro on Midosuji line, to the hotel. Hotel's entryway to B1 level elevator was from Exit 12 of the Namba Station. Check-in: Hotel & Museum Royal Classic, Rm 1905 on the premium guest floor. Access card needed for the sliding glass access door. The hotel building used to be the site of the "Shin-Kabukiza Theatre" of Osaka, such facade having been maintained, and integrated into the new hotel building.
Every trip to Osaka is about Osaka's night life and food trip. I was already craving for Harijyu's sukiyaki. Too bad, the restaurant closed early. Our alternative choice was yakiniku-grill at the restaurant with a cow hanging on the outside. For 5 years we've traveled to Osaka, I recall seeing the "hanging cow." But every single time, we had skipped the restaurant thinking it's a tourist trap, like expensive. Honestly, the "hanging cow" restaurant turned out to be alright, one imbued with traditional local vibe even, hubby says. Bill was around 7000-Yen for some premium beef selection, that included cow's tongue and entrails. An interesting dinner to say the least; the meat grilling was the interactive part. This yakiniku-style had surely made its way into our dining experience when in Japan.
February 8, Wednesday: Day 10. Day's Agenda: Solo Walking Tour. Because the hubby had wandered off early in the day, and cannot wait for me. When I left the hotel, it was 1PM, lol. As we were billeted in a nice, premium room (19th floor), and if I had my way, I'd camp out in the room. But, I could not stay-in, and not explore the city of Osaka. Besides, I had a personal errand to do... purchasing beauty products from the NARS counter in Daimaru department store. I had the choice between taking the subway/metro at Namba Station annexed to the hotel, and walking on foot, and turning it into a "Solo Walking Tour" travel vlog. (Note to Self: Bicycle riders abound; don't swerve left or right; walk a straight line so as not to hit a biker. Dang! I've lost my bicycle count along the way.]
Walking Osaka's main drag: Namba-Dotonbori-Shinsaibashi... Daimaru store... Shinsaibashi-Dotonbori-Namba... on repeat... till meet-up time with the missing le poupee, or Mr. Pasaway, at Harijyu Restaurant for the sukiyaki I missed on arrival in Osaka, and craving for. I mentioned to the hubby about the Japanese TV personality I have spotted in Osaka's main drag, pulling on cheese from a 10-yen cheese coin snack made viral on TikTok, watch travel vlog>>>
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| Mount Inari, 2023 |
February 9, Thursday: Day 11. All systems go! for Mount Inari trail hike. A Special Rapid JR-train to Kyoto timely arrives on Platform 8, at Umeda Station in Osaka. Our 14-day JR Pass was on its 10th day of use, and 4-days remaining credit. Mount Inari trail starts from the Fushimi Inari-Taisha-- head shrine of the kami Inari. It is the kami of rice and agriculture, also commerce. Inari was enshrined by the Huta clan, in 711. The shrine sits at the base of a mountain, also named "Inari." Here, foxes abound, regarded as messengers and keeper of the key to the shrine.
Right beside the main shrine was an area map on a marker post: the Mount Inari Trail. Mount Inari is 233-meters above sea level. The mountain trail spans 4-kilometers. There are 12,000 steps to climb. Passing through 10,000 torii gates. All systems go! for an impromptu hike to the TOP. Hike to the summit takes 1-2 hours. My record: 01:36H.
3:06PM, Start of Mount Inari Trail.
3:09PM, Torii Crossroad.
3:42PM, Big Pond.
4:09PM, 1st View Deck.
4:14PM, 500-meters to Summit.
4:18PM, 2nd View Deck.
4:42PM, Top of the Mountain.
On the trail, one hears nature: birds chirping, flow of water. At some point, even the call of the wild. Monkeys abound. A sign had cautioned, "Do not feed the monkeys. They are aggressive." "Or take photos, I assumed. "They [monkeys] are not friendly, unlike the spa/snow monkeys of Nagano," hubby added. I'd say, "The Inari monkeys are like [ungkler]-- aggressive! Kawaii!"
Many small shrines dotted the hike trail. Hi ho! Hi ho! Up the torii gates of Mount Inari we go! A never-ending tunnel of torii gates. Amidst lush forest, wild boars & monkeys. 10,000 torii gates. 12,000 steps to climb. It was a spontaneous hike-to-remember, indeed. "Hingal!" Cardio exercise. A long trek up. Whoooo! Raaaawr! I only ate 500-yen worth of the xiao long bao, or a total of 5-dumplings, while hubby ate a stick of steak barbecue, from a food stall. PANTAWID-GUTOM is the word.
Mount Inari Trail hike, motto: Don't quit. One step-at-a-time. Paved steps notwithstanding, it's no joke to climb 10,000 steps. I thought to myself, the Mount Inari summit better be worth it.
The Mount Inari view decks (1st, 2nd) opened up to a panoramic vista of the city of Kyoto, and dramatic sunset hours... to "Golden Hour" and "Twilight".
Remember the donkey asking Shrek: "Are we there yet? Are we THERE YET? ARE WE THERE YET!" One cannot help acting out the donkey, on the hike leading up to the summit of Mount Inari. 500-meters to go... 5-minutes to go... At 01:31H, "That's the summit!" hubby announces. "No, it's not the summit," I counter. At 01:32H, "That's the summit!" hubby declares. "Where is the summit!@#$%^" I retort back. Dear Lord... give me strength. Homestretch to summit...
After a long trek through the torii gates, which took a record time of 01:36H, we made it to the very top. The mountain top. The SUMMIT of Mount Inari. And on that summit sits the Kami-no-Yashiro Shrine, 233-meters above sea level. We've reached the very top of Mount Inari, and there's a shrine there, and I'm claiming my REWARD!
"Nakakahingal! A lot of cardio! And we're done! It's time to go back down. Thumbs up! Great!"
5:13PM, Descending from Summit.
5:16PM, "Golden Hour" - 2nd View Deck.
5:59PM, "Twilight".
Descending from the mountain was easier, than the ascent. But, night would soon set in. Lights were turned on. Still descending from Station 4. Three more stations to go to finally reach the foot of Mount Inari. Hurry down, before it gets too dark, and monkeys and wild boars appear. To think, a wild boar was already trailing, following me. "Bruto!" the hubby-wild boar, lol.
Hike to the summit took 1:36H, and only 45-minutes on return. Because we diverted to a different loop on the way down, I did not see the torii crossroad I have seen on the way up. Downward loop led to the market street, as well as the main torii gate of the Fushimi Inari shrine, where we entered when we alighted from the Inari train station.
My thoughts: One can only endure the Mount Inari trail hike during a cold winter, and not a hot summer. Truly!
6:08PM, Inari Station.
6:39PM, Kyoto Station.
8:06PM, Namba-Osaka Station.
10:21PM, Yakiniku Horumon Ryunosu Restaurant, in Shinsaibashi. We actually ran out of meal options for late-night dinner. We've wasted time walking back and forth. Exasperating... hubby could not make up his mind. Until I said, "We're dining here. Period." The restaurant grill had private door access to each table, from its alleyway. What charming concept, it lured me in. Instead of the traditional konro grill, the restaurant uses a "stove grill" for yakiniku, and filled-up with ice cubes for smoke control. How come when one is super hungry, one finds it difficult to pick a meal? I ordered the house specialty of noodles in broth with cow parts. Foodie verdict: Tastes like the Pinoy-bulalo!
Meanwhile, the stove grill was ready, after hubby had prepped it with meat fat to be non-stick. Hubby ordered the Yakiniku-meat set of cow and chicken parts, and kimchi side dish. Foodie verdict: Meat slices were disappointing, like some discarded, scraps of meat. It was chewy to the bite.
Have we been short-changed by those meat slices at the restaurant? Watch the video>>>, and be the judge. This is what we get for dining late-night. Never again, restaurant. !!!CAUTION: 2-extra side dishes of shredded cabbage in a small bowl had reached our table. Thinking it was a complimentary side dish to accompany the pricey yakiniku-meat set, we ate it up. But, the shredded cabbage was NOT FREE; the same had cost us extra 1500-Yen. The restaurant also overcharged the bowl of noodles in broth by extra980-Yen, too.
11:43PM, Midnight stroll in Namba. Ice cream for midnight dessert, for two. Hubby continues to grumble about the yakiniku restaurant-fail. Avoid touristy restaurants-trap in Osaka.
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| Nara, 2023 |
February 10, Friday: Day 12. Deer-feeding time in the city of Nara. It would not be the first, but a second time, since last time in 2015. A short train ride to Nara, from Osaka, via the Rapid Express train.
Wild deer freely roam in Nara Park, and they are not afraid of humans. Wild deer had taken on the culture of bowing their heads, when they are fed. In Nara Park, in fact, deer take priority, and traffic comes to a halt for every deer crossing the street.
Every deer wanted a piece of cracker from me! Everywhere I strolled, I came face-to-face with a deer-- young and old, big and small. Every deer attempting to speak out, "I want cracker! Feed me cracker! Go buy me a cracker!" Oh deer! Some of them, especially the big ones, were quite an aggressive bunch. Not a second from buying the deer cracker from the store selling it, and holding the bundle of cracker in my hand, an aggressive bunch of deer had instantly cornered me, and nudging me from behind, and reaching to grab a bite of the cracker from my hand whilst paper holder still attached to it. Last visit in 2015, a deer mouth had found its way into my jacket pocket, and bit the Nara Park map inside it, believing it was a real deer cracker; I had to risk my hand pulling it out of the deer's hungry mouth.
February 11, Saturday: Day 12. Transit day, Osaka-Tokyo, from where we started our Day 1.
(to be continued...)
oOo
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