ungkler: The Biblical Holy Land

Israel : Jerusalem, Nazareth, Galilee, Masada

Palestine : Bethlehem

Winter 2018

Atop Masada fortress in the Judaean Desert southeast of Jerusalem
(Dec-2018)

Journal Entry... Christmas lanterns are everywhere twinkling like stars under the night sky. There's one Star bound to shine the brightest, the Christmas story has told, over the place where the Baby Jesus is born on Christmas Day. I have had the wonderful opportunity of visiting many places around the world. I will never forgive myself if I miss out on what the greatest Book has written. I will not forget the day I set foot on the (Biblical) Holy Land.

Business on a Dreamliner

17-dec: Transit to the Holy Land... #GulfAirDreamliner flew us on its Manila-Bahrain-Istanbul leg, arriving in Istanbul past midnight. Check-in: #TavAirportHotel annexed to the airport. Next flight was in the afternoon via #TurkishAirlines, arriving in Tel Aviv an hour later. There's a Manila-Tel Aviv direct flight, but Istanbul is part of our itinerary come New Year 2019. Besides, Gulf Air had the lowest season fare to Business Class seats, which commanded the flight route.
Express Rail at Ben Gurion Airport in Tel Aviv transported us to our base city for the next 12 days: Jerusalem. Express rail was still free-of-charge on its initial run, save 5-Shekels to cover the Rav-Kav swipe card needed for boarding the public transport. On a regular Tel Aviv-Jerusalem run, it'll cost 16-Shekels, still, a fairly reasonable price than 70-Shekels in a private shuttle, and more Shekels in the Israeli taxi. Express rail cut travel time down to 30 minutes, avoiding expected traffic on the expressway to Jerusalem.
Who would not grab the chance at cost-saving when alternatives turn up for the taking. Outside the Jerusalem Central Station was a street rail and three stops later was Ha-Davidka station, for 5.90-Shekels per person. Not bad for us first-timers in the city, huh? A goodbye-wave to the taxi driver at Jerusalem Central Station, who was over-charging 70-Shekels for the taxi ride to Ha-Davidka, which if I'm not mistaken was the cost of shuttle service if coming from the Tel Aviv airport 49 km. away... SMH

Sunrise at 6AM in capital Jerusalem

Photo-op with WJ Staff

Check-in: #WindowsOfJerusalem in Agrippas Street, next door to Mahane Yehuda market and Ha-Davidka street rail stop, including a grocery, a money changer, restaurants, and countless street shops to name. Apartment no. 82 on the 12th floor offered a 180-degree city view extending as far as the old (Walled) city 2-km away. It was another city for me to absorb... and not just any other city. It is a Biblical city long ingrained into my consciousness as a Catholic - there I was in Jerusalem for real, and it was surreal at the same time.

Jewish quarter
at Dung Gate

19-dec: Old city of Jerusalem... Spent four days covering the four quarters: Christian, Jewish, Moslem and Armenian, of the old city of Jerusalem, close enough to knowing our way around like the back of the hand. That included the Via Dolorosa - following Station of the Cross markers, and at the Fifth Station, an imprint of the hand of Jesus upon the wall where his hand had rested, while Roman soldiers seized Simon from Cyrene to help carry the cross... touched by pilgrims. And the Ramparts Walk - a Northern portion that ends down and out to Damascus Gate, and Southern portion that ends down and out to Zion Gate, both semi-circling the old city walls.

Southern Ramparts
to Zion Gate

Beyond the walled city were the other Biblical areas: Garden of Gethsemane, downhill from Lions Gate to the foot of Mount of Olives, where Judas had betrayed Jesus to the Roman soldiers; Mount of Olives, in Kidron Valley, now dotted with leisure hotels; the City of David, a stone's throw away from Zion Gate, where Jesus had a Last Supper with his disciples in the Cenacle (Upper Room). Exiting the Southern Ramparts at noon on a Sunday (Dec 23), it was timely arrival to the 12:30PM visitors entry to the Temple Mount, where the Dome of the Rock is, the former site of the Holy Temple in ancient Jerusalem. Morning entry schedule to the Temple Mount was early for me.

Inside the walls of the old city of Jerusalem

Dome of the Rock at Temple Mount in the Moslem quarter
(Former site of Solomon's Temple - the Holy Temple in ancient Jerusalem)

Arabic food
at Al-Sultan Restaurant

While exploring the old city of Jerusalem was when I happily came across, unexpectedly, upon #Al-SultanRestaurant that Mark Wiens, the YouTube blogger, so raved about that I had to include it on my foodie checklist. He said it is not easy to locate the restaurant somewhere off the beaten path in old city quarters. You know how they say when you're not looking is when you'll find it - by chance. One can't actually miss the restaurant's sign up on the wall along Bab Hutta St. in the Moslem quarter, either walking the Via Dolorosa route to and from Lion's Gate, or exiting from Temple Mount. When that Temple Mount exit door led us straight back to the restaurant, effortlessly, at lunch time for a second visit was serendipity to its very word. Photo-op was called for on that second visit - the patriarch's son was working in the kitchen while his father (see, kitchen wall photo) was on vacation - as it should be.

Photo-op with owner's son
at Al-Sultan Restaurant

Definitely non-touristy, restaurant charged a reasonable price for unforgettable Arabic food, especially the parsley salad and hummus side dishes. Thanks to Mark Wiens for the traveling foodie tip. (Mark Wiens had recommended another, the #AzuraRestaurant at Mahane Yehuda market in the new city known for its ground meat eggplant, and namesake Azura, dish.)
Of these four days allotted for Jerusalem, two days fell on the Jewish Shabbat - Friday sundown to Saturday sundown.

During the Shabbat is when all Jewish-related commercial activity go in shutdown mode, public transportation included. Not as if it mattered to us there was no public transportation-- the Old City was but walking distance to and from the apartment to us anyway.

Deserted Jaffa street on the Shabbat in Jerusalem

But. Dang! Didn't I say the apartment was 2-km away?! Let me count the steps... Unwilling to pay extra for a taxi ride during the Shabbat, one must continue walking. Distance was forgivable in the cool (winter) weather. How's winter in Jerusalem? Hot and cold - cold in the shade and hot under the scorching sun. Nearest gate to the old city of Jerusalem on Jaffa St. is Jaffa Gate. Knowing the folks in the Moslem quarter went about their daily commercial activities, there was no need to worry about stacking up on grocery items before the Shabbat. Hubby and I just headed back to Al Bagdadi Kabab Restaurant*wink;)

Photo-op with Mustafa

First day visiting the old city, hubby was already spending away those Shekels in the souk, tsk. Mustafa, the shop owner, gave a good price for a souvenir kifaya & agal cord combo, and Jerusalem-printed shirt. Find Mustafa's corner shop along the main commercial drag between the Moslem and Christian quarters towards Jaffa Gate, no ad here intended*wink;) Mustafa insisted he demonstrate how hubby should wear the scarf for the head, or around his neck. I was amused, hubby was nearly looking a shepherd boy about to be sent off to tend sheep in the desert, lol. Mustafa went on telling stories about his family, his religion... addressing us "brother" and "sister" (hubby and I) as he chattered on. By the time we must leave his shop, Mustafa remembered one last detail about him. "You can (also) call me Doctor," he said. Told Mustafa we're lawyers. Mustafa laughed and gave hubby a pat on his back, like saying, if you say so.
I was under the weather by the third day. Two straight days of air-land transit had taken a toll on me, and dry air in Jerusalem and me are not getting along, plus breathing in sand particles in the air; I realized that Jerusalem is in the Middle East. A tea pot concoction of oranges and lemon (from Mahane Yehuda market) and ginger (from Ka Jessamhel's Asian store), for Vitamin C, and the open pot of boiling water on the gas stove to humidify the air did the trick.

Link to YouTube>>> Ungkler Travels 2018 | Ep.1: Old City of Jerusalem - ISRAEL

Manger Square
in Bethlehem

24-dec: Christmas Eve in Bethlehem... Put aside a self-guided tour to day trips out of Jerusalem because of uncertain scheduling of public transport. Backed out from renting a car as well, when thoughts of driving in the desert down south and unfamiliar territory up north had become intimidating. Driving to certain areas cancels out the car insurance. So, hubby and I settled for hassle-free Israeli-arranged tours.
The highlight, when one travels to the Holy Land in December, is, of course, the "Christmas in Bethlehem". #AbrahamTours (still) had an opening for two to the Christmas Eve-Day Tour, while the Christmas Day Tour got full instantly. There's a night tour option on Christmas Eve, but it starts late night till way past midnight and does not include the Nativity Grotto to give way to a traditional midnight mass in the Church of the Nativity. In short, the Christmas Eve-Day Tour looked more promising.

North Star up in the sky towards the direction of Bethlehem on Christmas Eve

Photo-op with Ashraf

I was awake before the break of dawn. And there it was the brightest star in the night sky towards the direction of Bethlehem, on Christmas Eve. As if foretelling what has been foretold, bound for Bethlehem we shall go... Meet-up 7AM at Abraham Hostel right off Davidka Square. Apartment was stone's throw away, it was not stressful to get there in under fifteen minutes. By 7:54AM, I was busy recording the border crossing to Palestinian-controlled Bethlehem, where Ashraf, the Christian-Palestinian guide, met the group at the first stop. (One can't help but notice a yellow road sign, at the border crossing, which read: Area "A", Entry Forbidden for Israeli citizens...)
First stop: Shepherd's Field...
Ashraf had this captivating way of introducing the Bethlehem sites. Ashraf had everybody's attention to him, curiously awaiting every bit of information he had to share.

Shepherd's Field

(Luke 2:8-15: And there were shepherds living out in the fields nearby, keeping watch over their flocks at night. An angel of the Lord appeared to them, and the glory of the Lord shone around them, and they were terrified. But the angel said to them, "Do not be afraid. I bring you good news of great joy that will be for all people. Today in the town of David a Savior has been born to you; he is Christ the Lord. This will be a sign to you: You will find a baby wrapped in cloths and lying in a manger. Suddenly a great company of the heavenly host appeared with the angel, praising God and saying, "Glory to God in the highest, and on earth peace to men on whom his favor rests" When the angels had left them and gone into heaven, the shepherds said to one another, "Let's go to Bethlehem and see this thing that has happened, which the Lord has told us about.)

A mock cave
in Shepherd's Field

At the lookout point in the now gated Shepherd's Field, Ashraf huddled everybody close to him. In whispering tone, he goes, "Listen... What I am about to show you nobody knows about, not even him." Ashraf nods his head to the other passing tour guide. Seeing to it the other tour guide was out of earshot, Ashraf then pointed to what appears to be a dug up cave behind him. "Everybody come follow me inside. Be careful on your way down. Watch your head on the cave opening," he said. One by one, group members followed Ashraf entering the cave. Our busload of a group fitted into the small cave... by some miracle.

A stone manger

Inside the cave, I had a glimpse of what Baby Jesus' birthplace looked like. Ashraf explained, "Contrary to how the West pictured it to be, the birthplace of Jesus was inside what resembles this cave in Bethlehem." It was believable given ancient settlements in Bethlehem were in stone houses, that had ground areas used for storing things and keeping working animals. Ashraf continued, "This is an area similar to where Mary was taken in, and gave birth to the Baby Jesus. It gave Mary the privacy she needed." Ashraf next questioned, "Do you have any idea what a manger looks like?" All of us expected Ashraf to answer his own question. Ashraf pointed to the mid-size rock which so happens to be right inside the cave not by coincidence, its top portion hollowed enough to cradle a baby. "A stone manger," Ashraf said. "Remember this stone manger, and this cave... and I want all of you to drop the image in the actual cave, in Bethlehem, where Baby Jesus was born. Because over there, you will see, the cave had been filled with religious ornaments you may hardly recognize it is a cave."

Outside the Chapel
of the Shepherd's Field

Ashraf led us out of the cave and to the Chapel of the Shepherd's Field nearby, armed with more clues; there was no dull moment with Ashraf as tour guide. "Look at the Angel statue up the Chapel's entrance... its finger pointing to the distance?" Can you guess where the Angel is pointing to?" Answer to Ashraf's question was a no-brainer. Right on cue, Ashraf asked the group, "Are you ready to go to Bethlehem?"
Second stop: Church of the Nativity...

Main altar
Church of the Nativity

Bus rolled up the hill towards the old town of Bethlehem. Ashraf sounded off his last minute instructions--
"Bethlehem is a very busy place as you can see. Crowd is pouring in for the Christmas Eve celebration. Areas will be cordoned off in steel barriers.

EVERYBODY.

PLEASE.

DON'T.

WANDER.

OFF.

TO THE OTHER SIDE OF MANGER SQUARE.

You will not be allowed to cross back. Stay with the group as we walk to the Church of the Nativity."

Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem is the oldest church in the world

Ashraf & tour group

Not a problem, or so I thought. Five of us were on tail end - me, the hubby, another couple, and a lady carrying her professional camera. Like Kevin, in the Home Alone film, falling behind and thinking he was still following family members, only to find himself boarding the wrong aircraft to a different destination. On the other side of Manger Square was this long and winding side street, without Ashraf and the group in sight. Lady photographer, who took a group photo back in Shepherd's Field and who I thought was part of the tour operator, took the lead, convincing us to keep walking down the street. Well, lady photographer turned to be a tourist herself on her first visit to Bethlehem as well. Someone had to put a foot down to her suggestion, which I did. Seeing we were past the bell tower of the church, turning around was downright common sense.

"Silver Star" marker

A small door opening, one needs to bend down to get in, was the way to enter the Church of the Nativity, called "Humility Door". I had to apologetically cut in the long line of people going in the small door. By the time the five of us tailgaters had gotten ourselves inside the Church, our group was deep in line inching towards the direction of the main altar, where the Nativity Grotto is underneath it. Ashraf, seeing our late arrival, shot us a look which might as well exclaim, "Get in line, now!" Ashraf was clueless he had five missing members from the group, lol.
It took us merely one hour to get to the stairs that led underground to the Nativity Grotto. Ashraf could not believe it himself, when it normally takes 3-5 hours during the busiest pilgrimage day to Bethlehem. Down the Nativity Grotto were gold lamps hanging from a low ceiling, which trickled down oil on the faithful. By the altar skirt was the "Silver Star" marking the traditional spot where the Baby Jesus was born and laid down in a manger on Christmas Day. As hubby and I knelt down before it, I dropped the image of the Shepherd's Field (recreated) cave... then touched the real stone manger from the Silver Star's open top part, with a silent prayer. As did Shepherd boys, and the three Wise Men, who found the Baby Jesus lying in the manger, the Christmas story has told, who "returned, glorifying and praising God for all the things they had heard and seen, which were just as they had been told (Luke 2:16-20)."

A traditional Christmas Eve-Day Parade commencing at Manger Square

Day parade on Christmas Eve continues down Star Street in the old town of Bethlehem

Two Peas
in Bethlehem

Christmas Eve-day parade of marching bands was in full swing, commencing from Manger Square and continuing down Star Street, to circle the old town of Bethlehem. Everybody present was in a joyous mood as if there was no underlying tension in surrounding areas. The camera boom was recording the event I happily wave to it every time it panned my way, hoping for some TV exposure. That Christmas Eve-Day Tour in Bethlehem was a memorable success!
Third, and last, stop: Lunch in Beit Sahour. Nobody objected, everybody was game on for lunch. Except for hubby who had earlier bought falafel sandwich and still quite full from it.

Link to YouTube>>> Ungkler Travels 2018 | Ep.1 - Christmas Eve in Bethlehem - PALESTINE

On Galilee shores

26-dec: Day trip to Nazareth, Sea of Galilee, Jordan River... c/o Rent-a-Guide's tour proved to be a tight-fitting schedule, which aimed at covering in a day's trip the Biblical areas significant to the life of Jesus.
Meet-up 6AM at another Jerusalem hotel location (still) right across the apartment. Weather was much colder before sunrise. I could already see three people waiting by the curb from the apartment window, who turned out to be part of another group. Rent-a-Guide's shuttle van arrived first, which had my name and the hubby's, which was great because I was getting impatient standing out in the cold. Shuttle van transited to Tel Aviv, stopping at a sports field parking lot. Then the tour buses arrived, one after the next. For a second tour, I had learned to be quick in boarding the tour bus, saving those front seats for unobstructed video recording I've been doing to document the trip. Sprinting over to the bus, I waved to a lady tourist, who I remember from that Bethlehem tour group; no, not the lady photographer. Familiar faces do abound when one is touring the Holy Land.
Proceeding with Rent-A-Guide tour: "Depart Tel Aviv via the coastal road and the landscape of the lower Galilee to Nazareth, the town where Jesus spent his childhood. Visit the Basilica of the Annunciation and the Church of St. Joseph."

Entrance to the Church of the Annunciation in Nazareth

"Continue via Cana, to Tiberias, the lively resort town on the Sea of Galilee. Drive along the Kineret Lake to Capernaum and view the ruins of the ancient synagogue where Jesus taught. Continue to Tabgha and visit the Church of Multiplication of Loaves and Fishes with the beautiful mosaic floor."

Sea of Galilee is actually a lake

Mount of Beatitudes is filled with nature's bounty

"Proceed to Yardenit, the famous baptismal site located where the Jordan River flows out from the Sea of Galilee to the Dead Sea. Enjoy the peaceful and natural surrounding on site."

Baptismal site on the river Jordan

Lea & tour group

Lea, the Israeli tour guide, was alternating between English and Spanish for the benefit of group members who were mostly from Spain. Lea held on to her plastic pink rose as props to compensate for her short height, for us to follow her around the Biblical sites. She insisted we call her "Mommy", while under her headcount.

Sea of Galilee reflection

Day trip gave a glimpse of the north which was more of a road tour understandably because the sites are not near each other distance wise. Some Biblical areas all Lea could do was point to them from the moving bus, such as the field of the Armageddon to the final battle in the Book of Revelation, Mount Tabor in Jesus' transfiguration on a mountain, and the Church in Cana where Jesus transformed water to wine during a wedding. There was not enough time to feel the moment, but it was sufficient for me to have confirmed the areas existed as told in the Bible. By the Galilee shores, I could not resist picking up a heart-shaped stone for keeps... thinking, "Who among the Biblical personalities had walked on it after a day of catching fish in the Sea of Galilee?" I shuddered at the thought.

St. Peter's fish
aka "tilapia"

Then came lunch. Seeing the restaurant we were headed to had me and the hubby exchanging a smirking look. Hubby knew of not-so-good online reviews about the restaurant, that had him sign up with Rent-a-Guide that did not include lunch option in the restaurant - hubby expected random choices at a stopover area. Truth be told, St. Peter's Restaurant is the lone restaurant catering to all tour groups in the Galilee area. Restaurant had full seating capacity guaranteed for busloads of tourists arriving to the restaurant by the minute. To the restaurant's credit, it had four meal & buffet options for a fixed price at 80-Shekels - the main meal was delivered to the table, while side dishes were laid out at the buffet station. I settled for the apparently abundant, and restaurant's namesake St. Peter's fish aka "tilapia meal", wanting to avoid meat that day. It's the most pricey tilapia meal I have ever had to date, a fish I know will not cost me a whopping equivalent of 1,200 Philippine Pesos back home in the archipelago. Tip: When traveling, never do a currency converter, for every travel experience is priceless*wink;)

Link to YouTube>>> Ungkler Travels 2018 | Ep. 3 - Day Trip to Nazareth, Sea of Galilee, Mount of Beatitudes, Jordan River - ISRAEL

Road 90
to Masada fortress

28-dec: Road to Masada... Masada can be reached on the east, via road 90, by cable car or the "Snake Path". Moreso using Fun Time c/o Tour Israel*wink;) It was our last day trip out of Jerusalem, forgive the tour group's lack of organization and overbooking of people, tsk.
Road to Masada had nothing but rocks and sand creeping everywhere and a lifeless sea offering some kind of oasis next to the Ein Gedi waterfalls. A two-way asphalt road bisected the uneven desert floor. Tour bus did a rhythmic sway to opposing winds in the never-ending highway, which was disconcerting. It was reassuring to at least know if there was bus trouble, I'd have a support group in the desert, lol. I don't remember seeing public transport plying the desert route, other than tour buses. Are we to transit smoothly on the Masada trip, huh?

Two Peas & a camel

En route to Masada, I had a photo-op with one darling of a camel for 20-Shekels, that came with an unexpected 1-minute bonus ride around the gasoline station, where the tour bus did a quick stopover. Fact that the camel did not have stirrups, as riding horses would, had me [shrieking] all over the place from acrophobia when the camel stood up to its full height, whilst its owner was making a fun ride out of it, tugging on the camel's rope to even go further to my protest; I heard people clapping when I got back down from that (short) camel ride. Did you know? "Camels are powerful runners, and can reach the speed of 40 miles per hour in a short burst, which is as fast as a horse." I told you so.
First stop, Masada Fortress...
One word - MONUMENTAL. No wonder King Herod laid claim to it to landscape a palace retreat in the sky. Trivia: Built by Herod, king of Judea, Masada is a palatial fortress in the style of the ancient Roman East. The camps, fortifications, and assault ramp at its base constitute the most complete surviving ancient Roman siege system in the world.

A cable car mid-way up the Masada fortress

An intoxicating Judaean Desert surrounding the Masada fortress

Two Peas in Masada

From atop Masada fortress was the enormous stretch of Judeaen Desert surrounding the fortress, it was intoxicating. Like a distant mirage, the lifeless sea was playing catch to the sun's reflection creating a stairway to heaven through an opening in the clouds. Life in the desert is an acquired taste. The thought itself made me hungry past 1PM, whilst eating in the fortress complex was forbidden. Hubby had sneaked up a bite from a sandwich in our lunch pack nonetheless. It was Friday, and last cable car ride down the fortress was at 3PM, before sundown and the Shabbat. (Cable car: 74-Shekels/person) Nobody in the group dared to miss the tour bus leaving Masada at exactly 2PM, reminded the tour guide, and not for a leisurely stroll in the desert anyway.
Second stop, Ein Gedi...

As the bus made its way around the curve to the Ein Gedi entrance, so did desert Ibexes trot alongside it to feed on a solitary bush in a dried up creek nearby. First time seeing a tribe of Ibexes (of the goat family) was thrilling enough. I remember the kid-goat I made into a pet during childhood, I'd dress it up in my brother's shirt; my brother had scolded me when he found out, "Why don't you use your own shirt to put on the goat instead?!" Oh, brother.

Natural oasis at the Ein Gedi reserve

On Dead Sea shores

Tour guide had the Ein Gedi part, optional. Knowing the tour had no lunch inclusion, tour guide pointed to the snack bar at Ein Gedi for those wanting to get lunch. Seeing a similar desert scene beyond the entrance turnstile, the sandwich pack I had brought got my better attention, with Ein Gedi left to my imagination. (Ein Gedi tour was 27-Shekels/person to my pocket anyway...) The one photo souvenir of Ein Gedi I had was the entrance... unexplored.
Third and final stop, Dead Sea...
I was now at the Earth's lowest point 400 meters below sea level, and without a dive mask. One word - INCREDIBLE. Did you know? Every pebble... every rock... every shell... lurking in the waters of the Dead Sea, and appearing whole, disintegrated into mud when crushed by one's hand. The Dead Sea was that deadly... serious.

Dead Sea, at 400 meters below sea level, is the lowest point on Earth

Seawater was too cold to swim in late afternoon that winter. But I am not one to blame the others who made a go for the saltiest oasis to complete their desert experience. Did you know? Dead Sea water level is recorded to be in the decline it's just a matter of time before it entirely evaporated because of global warming. As for me, a photo-op next to it will suffice. Picked up a handful of salt crystals that had formed out of the sea water for souvenir. Tasted how salty the Dead Sea water to prove it for myself, too, what the heck.

Link to YouTube>>> Ungkler Travels 2018 | Ep. 4 - Masada & the Judeaen Desert - ISRAEL

Apartment checkout

30-dec: Express train to Ben Gurion Airport... Hopped on the passing street rail at Ha-Davidka to Jerusalem Central Station, and then the Express train to Tel Aviv. Got cleared by Security Control with an "02-digit code" at Ben Gurion Airport for boarding #TurkishAirlines to our return destination: Istanbul.

Link to>>> Journal Entry: Turkler in the City #turkey #istanbul #winter2019

oOo
PHOTOSTITCH

#Israel #Jerusalem #winter2018