ungkler: I Sat on the Great Wall

China : Hong Kong, Shenzhen, Beijing & Shanghai

Winter 2005

To climb or not to climb the Great Wall of China
(jan-2005)

Journal Entry... My first travel overseas... with the hubby. Call it, the honeymoon*wink.

Hongkong, 2005

16-jan: Arrival in Hong Kong... via Cathay Pacific. Tour guide Eric was at the arrival area, holding a piece of white paper up his chest with our names written on it. One of the perks signing up with a tour agency is not to worry about airport-hotel transfer. I waved a hand to the tour guide. Check-in: Marco Polo Prince in Tsim Shat Shui area. I was familiar with the area, the same location base of my office junket in 1997. I could find my way through busy streets to that Forex shop offering better exchange rate to Hong Kong dollars. Hubby himself is no stranger to the area, who also had an earlier business trip to Hong Kong. Must I say, Hong Kong was the in-demand destination for most Asian travelers during this period.

Tour package came with customary Hong Kong City tour that afternoon. It was a repeat for me, after my office junket which had one, too. First stop: Avenue of Stars. Hong Kong's version to Hollywood Walk of Fame? (I have not been to Hollywood.) It was windy and cool out on the promenade fronting Victoria Harbour, my hair strands flying in every direction. Hong Kong weather gets pleasantly cold during winter season. Wished Manila had four seasons. On the walkway were plaques (markers) with a celebrity's name on them. Tour guide Eric nonchalantly pointed to Jackie Chan's plaque, his facial expression saying, "One can't be Asian without knowing who Jackie Chan is. Aren't you excited to see it?" Eric insisted we pose next to it. Eric took our photo using his camera first, then my camera which I handed to him. I had inkling where our photo in Eric's camera will end up, that is, on a "souvenir item" for sale. I bought the souvenir photo out of courtesy to Eric's sideline trade. Souvenir photo read: "Hong Kong Welcome You, 2005-01-16" Last stop: Victoria Peak. Hong Kong's city scape of buildings and skyscrapers had the illusion of a scale model from that elevation.

Before tour guide Eric left, he handed us a McDonalds voucher. Just like the tour guide in my earlier office junket. Must be every tour guide's protocol to hand the meal voucher. Complimentary breakfast is rare in Hong Kong hotels that tour guides consider their gift vouchers to be a favour. But we were not strangers to the Tsim Shat Shui area, and know it is filled to the brink with a variety of foods. Had our eyes set on mouthwatering dimsum at the restaurant across the hotel for starters.

Shenzhen, 2005

17-jan: Transit to China... China visa was required for entry, unlike mere show of passport to Hong Kong immigration. Boarded a train in Hong Kong transiting to the border at Shenzhen, China.

Tour guide John waved us over to a waiting van at the arrival area. Tour package had a similar city tour, this time, of Shenzhen. There were only two of us, the hubby and I. First stop: Wonders of the World. An attraction park with a hodgepodge of replicas of world's iconic landmarks: the Eiffel Tower; the glass pyramid (outside Louvre museum); Roman columns and statues. I could not account for everything. Last stop: Shenzhen's pearl and jade shoppes. How I got convinced to swipe my credit card for a set of pearl jewelry (ring, earrings) at a staggering price of Chinese yuan 4000, still has me shaking my head long after the trip. I did purchase a jade-looking "Dragon Boat", said to bring one good tidings, on my own free will.

Tour guide John took our photo using his camera, then using my camera next. Guess where John's photo of us ended up? Purchased the souvenir photo once more... By 5PM, we were dropped off at Shenzhen airport for the flight to Beijing.

Brrrrr! Got stung by the wintry night air instantly as I stepped out of the plane, down the ramp to the idling airport bus. It was 1-degree centigrade, my first taste of winter weather. I look at the hubby, his thoughts must still be on his Swiss-pocket knife he had to surrender to Shenzhen airport authorities, forgetting it was in his hand carry backpack. He was assured he could claim the pocket knife when he returns to Shenzhen.

Tour guide Larry James met us at the arrival area, and ushered us to a waiting car. Just hubby and I on the tour. (It was when I realized the tour package was meant for 2 pax all along.) Check-in: Qianmen Hotel in Yongan Road.

Beijing, 2005

18-jan: I Sat on the Great Wall of China... To climb, or not to climb, the Great Wall was the big question-of-the-day. Tour guide Larry James brought us to that section of the wall where the incline of the steps was at its sharpest, combined with strong mountain winds on a cold winter day.

What actually complicated the situation was my wrong footwear that day. It was leather boots, and it had heels. It made a heavy impact on hard stone. I managed to walk up a couple of steps, until I had the bright idea to look back down the steps. Fear of heights hit me like a ton of brick. I feared losing my balance. My knees trembled uncontrollably. I lost the nerve to forge ahead. Hubby left me to sit it out on the steps as he clambered his way up to a lookout point. Had I not looked back, perhaps... When the next opportunity comes, I better be wearing rubber shoes!

What a feat to climb the great wall jutting out from the mountain slopes in Beijing

An emperor's summer palace by the lake

After lunch in a restaurant, tour guide Larry James brought us to Summer Palace. Kunming lake surrounding the palace was frozen in ice. A sign in Chinese had English translation: "Don't step on the ice." A number of people were out stepping on the lake oblivious to the sign. I thought to myself, they must be those passengers on the flight to Beijing the flight attendant was herding back to their seats, who were opening the overhead bins while the plane was still taxiing down the runway.

Tour guide Larry James spoke good English, by the way, which he says was self-taught. He was precise down to historical dates: "In eleven fifty three... one, one, five, three... the Summer Palace was ordered constructed." Larry James was cool even when I delayed his walking tour many times for photo-op. But, it did come to a point Larry James had to hurry me up for that last stop: Beijing's pearl and jade shoppes (Beijing Banner Jadeware City; Bang Fu Chun Pearl Store). "Not again!" I exclaimed inwardly. Having learned a lesson or two in Shenzhen, I restrained myself from admiring the goods on display. (Except for one jade-looking pendant I decided to gift to my mother; the certificate card read: "Welcome to our store, relying on the card, all the products we guarantee the quality, if have some problem with the quality, please call the complaint number." Yeah, right. At the pearl shoppe, a young saleslady approached me to sales talk me into buying a "pearl creme." It was then I noticed breakouts on her face. Naughtily I asked if she was using the same "pearl creme." The young saleslady left me with an unanswered question.

Craved for Peking duck that evening. Must-eat. Quianmen Quanjude Roast Duck Restaurant claimed to be "the Oldest One, built in 1864" on the third year of Tongzhi, Qing Dynasty enjoying a history over 140 years. Its motto: To the Great Wall - a Trip for Real Heroes. Peking Duck at Quanjude - Food for Real Gourmets. Hotel staff arranged a taxi service for us to restaurant's location at no. 32 Quian Men Street. Hotel staff gave us a hotel card to show the taxi driver when returning back to the hotel.

Every Peking duck was numbered. At the end of a meal, the restaurant hands to the diner the numbered Certificate to the Peking duck, like a serial number to the Peking duck's lost life nudging at every diner's conscience-- "Commemoration Card of Quanjude Roast Duck: no. 048961, the above number is the roast duck we have served to you from 1864 on," it read. One cup of hot tea please!

Our Peking duck order was served two-ways. First serving: slices of duck skin to be wrapped in Chinese-style pancake with onion leeks and Hoisin sauce. I tucked in a slice or two of the duck skin inside the pancake, added onion leaks, drizzled Hoisin sauce... and nom, nom, nom! Second serving: the remaining duck meat were cubed and sauteed in vegetables. There was a third food item on the table we got from pointing to an image in the Chinese language menu. It was gelatinous substance swimming in sweet-and-sour sauce. Clueless.

19-jan: More sightseeing in Beijing... Tour guide Larry James picked us up the next day for continuation of the city tour. First stop: Temple of Heaven. On center ground was a pathway in marble devoted to the Emperor. Now open to the public, anyone can role play as the Emperor-of-the-day inside the temple. Larry James pointed to an elevated round marble, he says it's where the Emperor stand to pray to the heavens for good harvest. Photo spot on.

A once forbidden city opens its gate to the public

Next stop: Forbidden City. Stepping foot on the once forbidden city (now, the Palace Museum) brought about goosebumps. Before entering the Forbidden City, Larry James had us stop by in an herbal clinic across the infamous Tiananmen Square. Tour protocol. At the clinic, hubby's tongue went under intense examination by a Chinese doctor. In thick accent, the Chinese doctor strongly declared: "Too much heat!" I laughed. Doc, it's winter, it's freezing outdoors, one needs to produce heat for the body! Chinese doctor came up with a list of recommended herbs, the same are for purchase at the clinic. Let's just say, the doctor's list of herbs was neither for skeptics nor the fainthearted.

Shanghai, 2005

20-jan: Arrival in Shanghai... There was enough time for a morning stroll before out afternoon flight. It led me to an interesting shop. The shop was selling delectable-looking biscuits in a row of individual glass containers. I bought one of each out of curiosity for sampling. Bit into each one... and I spit them all out! "Were those dog biscuits?!!" Dang! the language barrier.

By 3PM, tour guide Larry James brought us to the airport for our flight to Shanghai, where another tour guide, George, was waiting to receive us at the airport arrival area. Check-in: Shanghai Eastern Airline Hotel.

21-jan: Shanghai city tour turns sour... Tour guide George brought us to the Bund promenade. He was in a hurry to take us to Shanghai's pearl shoppe. Not so keen to go for a third round. How could it be any different from Shenzhen's and Beijing's? I nudged at hubby's arm, and he understood my mind. Frankly told George we were not interested in the pearl shoppe and preferred to get off the tour early. George did not like the idea, and he phoned somebody. George eventually agreed to leave us in the area after the phone call. Wound our way to a commercial area: Nanjing Road. Enjoyed the window shopping and food trip, and the Beard Papa puff pastry oozing with custard cream filling for the road.

Night fell, and it started to rain. First droplets, then heavy downpour. (Tour guide George must be doing the 'rain dance' because we skipped his pearl shoppe itinerary.) We forget how to return to the hotel from Nanjing Road. Scoured the area for taxi, but could not find hail any taxi from the street. A lightbulb idea: a surefire taxi stand at the nearest hotel. This was where we stood next to a Singaporean guy waiting for a taxi.

Singaporean guy at the hotel's taxi stand off Nanjing Road had some urban legend up his sleeves: "They say, don't ride the red taxi. A couple rode in a red taxi, one rainy night. In the middle of their ride, taxi stops. Taxi driver tells the couple something is wrong with the car tires. Taxi driver asks the husband to help him check the car tires. Husband steps out, and taxi drove off with the wife still inside the taxi. Wife was never seen again."

A black taxi make its way to the hotel's taxi stand. Singaporean guy jumped in with his final warning: "Remember, don't ride the red taxi."

Few minutes goes by. Another taxi makes its way to the hotel's taxi stand. We were up to ride it. It was a RED TAXI! What the-- What coincidence it was for the Singaporean guy getting for himself a black taxi, and us getting a red taxi? (Tour guide George must be laughing out loud!) Singaporean guy's urban legend ringing in my ears, I looked wide eyed at hubby, like saying, "Are we riding this red taxi?" Hubby must be swearing this is when his Swiss-made pocket knife could come in handy than being in a storage drawer somewhere at Shenzhen airport. Singaporean guy's voice was haunting the mind all throughout our red taxi ride from Nanjing Road to the hotel. (For the record, the driver of the red taxi brought us safely back to the hotel lah!)

22-jan: Return to Shenzhen... A replacement tour guide appeared in the hotel the morning of our flight to Shenzhen to bring us to the airport. Moody tour guide George was a no-show. Landing in Shenzhen. Check-in: Lou Hu Hotel.

Tour over, hubby and I were on our own. Language barrier got in the way. Waitress at some road side restaurant turned us away for barely understanding English, her hand gestures telling us she has no time for us. Found our way to a food court in a department store. The fish stew served in a wok over portable gas stove won us over presentation-wise. Fish stew was smothered in red chili, enough to salivate the mouth. How to order: Point to fish stew... point finger up... nod head... pay up. One steaming wok of fish stew before me. I dug in. Took a bite of the fish. Whatever fish it was, it had bazillions of fish bones! How to eat: ??? A couple at the next table was devouring the same fish stew with gusto; while engaged in lively conversation, fish bones were being spitted out from their mouths. Saying goes, "Practice makes perfect."

Headed after to a McDonald's fast food chain for uncomplicated burger-and-fries meal. This would have been the time the Hong Kong tour guide Eric's McDonald's voucher could have been put to good use, but the Hong Kong McDonald's voucher was not accepted in Shenzhen. Oh, well.

P.s. Hubby had claimed back his Swiss-pocket knife from Shenzhen airport storage. He was conscious this time to safe keep it in his check-in luggage for the journey home.

23-jan: Homebound, Manila... Until the next travel, xo. ungkler

oOo