Greece : Athens, Distomo, Delphi, Santorini
Autumn 2016
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Birthday girl in a red scarf from sun up till sun down in the island of Santorini
(Nov-2016) |
Journal Entry... I have been long wanting to go to Greece. The shoot location of My Big Fat Greek Wedding (American film, 2002), Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants (American film, 2005), and For the First Time (Philippine film, 2008) were inviting. Some places on earth, like theParthenon, one needs to see once in a lifetime. After forgivably passing on Greece several times in previous travels to Europe that have concluded on seven countries, even running a circle on second visits, i.e. France (2008, 2015); Italy (2011, 2015); Spain (2011); Germany (2013); Czech Republic (2013); Austria (2011, 2013); and The Netherlands (2013), it was time to land in Greece. What better time to put that Greece arrival stamp on my passport than on the celebration of MY BIRTHDAY.
Link to YouTube>>>Ungkler Travels | GREECE feat. Athens Distomo Arachova Delphi Santorini
30-oct: Arrived Athens...
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| Athens graffiti |
Landed Athens via #EtihadAirways (Manila-Abu Dhabi-Rome) and alliance partner #Alitalia (Rome-Athens). Transit was beyond normal duration from an extended layover in Fiumicino Airport, in Rome. Flying on Business Class (on ticket sale!) made the long haul acceptable.
From the airport, hubby and I rode the taxi to downtown Athens. Check-in: #ParthenonSuites, in Psiri District in the old... no, wait... of the ancient Greek city.
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| 31-oct: 6AM Athens, Kalimera! (Parthenon Suites view) |
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| Exploration Acropolis |
Apartment setting had floor to ceiling windows that opened up to the grandest showcase-- the Parthenon, in Athens. Did you know? Spotlight on Parthenon dimmed in sync with the rising Hellenic sun. I was up by 5AM, on autopilot, from the time zone difference.
Across the street was Monastiraki ("Little Monastery") - doorway to the ancient Greek city. Armed with combo tickets, hubby and I walked to the sites: Acropolis/Parthenon, Ancient Agora, Roman Agora (& Tower of the Winds), and the Temple of Olympian Zeus. When in Athens, do remember to take nothing but photos in the Parthenon, or else, hear Security blow a whistle at anyone who attempts to pick up a stone from the ground. At one point, a pebble got stuck to the grid under hubby's right shoe... And so, the mischievous hubby pushed his right foot down even more, to get the pebble stuck to his right shoe. Back in the apartment, hubby triumphantly collected the pebble from under his right shoe, which he kept inside a zippered compartment in his backpack for keeps, or so he thought. Believe me or not, said pebble was later nowhere to be found in his backpack, vanishing into thin air... and most likely teleporting itself back to the Parthenon grounds.
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| The Parthenon - one of the last remaining ancient buildings in the Acropolis of Athens |
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| Parthenon as seen from the Temple of Hephaestus in ancient Agora |
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| Mount Lycabettus as seen from the Parthenon in the Acropolis |
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| Food trip in Athens |
Speaking of feta cheese, big blocks accompanied every serving of Greek food. How much calories does feta cheese have, 'cause I gained weight from the Greece travel! Next door from apartment was Psiri District, where restaurants mushroomed ever since the area was gentrified. Styled with quintessential overhead trellis, where pink bougainvillea crawled, was #AischylouGrillHouse. Restaurant was our go-to restaurant, especially for late night takeouts; restaurant had fairly reasonable prices than other touristy restaurants in Monastiraki. Hubby and I had become familiar diners we'd noticeably get extra servings on the takeouts much to our delight. When in Greece, food trip the Greek way! Don't mind the graffiti-ridden walls all around Athens, since freedom of expression is innate in the Greek way of life.
Link to YouTube>>> Ungkler Travels | GREECE feat. Athens
3-nov: Road to Delphi...
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| Greece motorway |
Hubby was excited at driving for the first time on a travel. We'd normally take the public transport, especially when trains are readily accessible in most European countries, and also because we usually traveled in winter when snow is inevitable. Greece, meanwhile, is closer to the equator, and it is autumn, and without snow, at the time of our Greece travel. Besides, public transport to out-of-town trips appeared to be cumbersome as what happened during the Metro ride to Koropi station, from Monastiraki...
* * * * *
My version: I heard an announcement while inside the Metro. It was in Greek, which was followed by an English announcement, which was still incomprehensible to me. Next stop, commuters alighted, and lights inside the train went off. Still expecting the train to continue to Koropi a couple of stops away, hubby and I remained seated inside the train. Train did not move, its doors remained open. Train appeared on park. Train not moving, hubby decided for us to get off. Hubby stood up, and walked out; I followed his lead. While hubby made it outside to the platform, I was about to step a foot out when the train doors started closing. Panic dawned on both our faces, the hubby and I. The unlighted train moved forward, and continued, entering a tunnel. Now, here's where the Korean movie, "Train to Busan," flashed before me. Then, I heard voices murmuring in the dark... which belonged to two other passengers who got themselves stuck inside the train-- I felt relieved. They walked past me and went to the front of the train, and knocked on a door. Train halted... and out from the door came the train driver. Dang! I forget trains, too, had drivers... Train driver went back inside the door, and next thing happening, the train was moving in reverse, back to the last Metro stop: Doukissis Plakentias - where the train terminates, as announced, and where commuters are to alight to connect to other Metro lines.
* * * * *
SMS://Thu, 3 Nov, 9:30AM
Hubby: I am going to ask info paano [how] to get you
Me: Im at Doukissis Plakentias towards direction of Monastiraki... binalik nya yung [train driver returned] train
Me: Go down here
Hubby: Ok Doukissis punta ako dyan [I'll go there]
* * * * *
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This way to the Monastery
of Hosios Loukas... |
Hubby picked a #JeepRenegade for the road trip, to match the Greek vibe hubby and I were aiming for. Rental car pick-up was in Koropi station, outside Athens-- better to start the car from a clear road, than in a busy city center, well, except stepping on the brakes for the tribe of goats crossing the road in Koropi. Hubby was behind the whell, while I seated myself at the back for better video recording. The Jeep Renegade came with a cool GPS device. As hubby and I were almost enjoying the road trip, the GPS device conked out of battery! Hubby was directionless on the highway, and swearing like crazy! Until hubby remembered that he had rented a pocket Wi-Fi, and drove to the shoulder, switching his iPhone to Google maps... Wi-Fi saves the day!
Fork in the road to Delphi had us first driving to the Monastery of Hosios Loukas, sitting on the slopes of Mount Helikon. Founded by its namesake venerable saint, the Saint's crypt is said to produce healing effects.
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| Monastery in Distomo |
The monastery is a UNESCO-declared world heritage site. Winding stairway led us down to the monastery, as the entrance sign had said. It had twin churches, conjoined by a door. When I was about to enter the main church, a guy called out, in Greek, which I did not understand yet again. He motioned for me to follow him, entering a museum that had minimal artefacts, on display. Greek guy points to the sign: "Entrance: Euro 2". Why, I am not all surprised there's entrance fee. It was (only) Euro 2, so I let it go, and dutifully paid for two persons.
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| UNESCO-declared World Heritage Site - the Monastery of Hosios Loukas in Distomo |
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| 11th century Katholikon (main church) is decorated in Byzantine style |
There's always a time for prayer on every travel. The 11th-century Katholikon (main church) was decorated in Byzantine-style. Main church had an access door to a smaller church, the Theotokos, dedicated to the Mother of God.
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Photo with Vicki
at Phito Rooms |
As much as I would have wanted to stay longer in Hosios Loukas, hubby said we better hurry to get to Delphi, to find us hotel accommodation for the night. It was 2:31PM, and I'm hearing mountain echoes-- "Hurry up! (Hurry up!) (Hurry up!) I'm not sleeping in the Jeep!" hubby said.
Truth be told, had we delayed, and arrived after 4PM in Delphi, we would have arrived to a closed #PithoRooms, and checked-in elsewhere. Hubby and I would have not met its hotel owner, George (and his wife Vicky), who at that moment was on his way out to pick up his sons from swimming practice. I remember rushing out of the idling Jeep to the hotel's entrance... climbing the steps to the second floor finding an empty dining area... finding a way up to the third floor calling out, "Hello?!" Right about there, George turned up beside the open cabinet door, catching us both in surprise. George would welcome me and the hubby on walk-in, like long lost relatives. "Friends are the family you make," a TV series once said.
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Photo with George & Vicky
at Phito Rooms |
This much can be said about George & Vicki, alongside excellent reviews on the family-run hotel. Breakfast service was personally attended to by George... bread came from the bakery next door... orange juice was freshly squeezed from the fruit... food choices were on buffet... and George was game to endless stories that would have kept us glued at breakfast, had we not have a tourist-related activity to get to. Originally planning an overnight stay, hubby and I extended for a second night for that endearing provincial atmosphere in Delphi, or "Delfoi" if you please.
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| Sunset in Delphi |
Hubby and I went for a late lunch of gyros at the next door cafe (recommended by George), and a stroll on the roadside of a two-way street, after. Sidewalk led to the view deck that overlooked a serene mountainscape, and the distant seaside town. Autumn weather sent a cool breeze over. And there we were, timely catching a lovely sunset in Delphi.
4-nov: Ancient world at Delphi...
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| Delphi sanctuary |
Found myself standing exactly at the centre of the ancient world by the Temple of Apollo, the next morning. According to legend, when Zeus released two eagles from the ends of the universe to find the center of the world, their paths (supposedly) crossed in the sky above Delphi. Believers flocked from all over the ancient world to seek the advice of the god and an oracle. They purified themselves in the Kastalia spring, paid a tribute, and sacrificed an animal on the altar of Apollo. The god's oracles were uttered by the Pythia, the priestess of the shrine, and were interpreted by the priests of Apollo.
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| Temple of Apollo, in the centre of (ancient) Delphi |
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| Sanctuary of Athena Pronaia, where truth seekers awaited their turn at Temple of Apollo |
Southeast of Apollo's sanctuary is the sanctuary of Athena Pronaia. The latter sanctuary was beyond walking distance. But I had to complete the story at Delphi, even if it meant walking the roadside, back and forth. The Jeep was already comfortably parked at a good spot in front of the hotel, hubby was not keen to giving it up; he had a clear view of the Jeep looking out from the hotel room balcony.
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| Greek food in Delphi |
On the first night, hubby and I went up to #TavernaVakhos (again, recommended by George) for Greek countryside cuisine. Who else could we trust when it comes to local food but George himself. Hubby and I returned to the restaurant on the second night for the obvious reason. Only, we had to climb the many steps up and down the restaurant's location, well, it turned out effective in burning those extra calories from the generous serving in Taverna Vakhos.
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| Standing at the centre of the ancient world in Delphi |
Link to YouTube>>> Ungkler Travels | GREECE feat. Road to Delphi
5-nov: Road to Athens...
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Photo-op with Jeep Renegade
against Arachova backdrop |
"Don't wait 10 years to visit!" were George's words as he bid us a safe return to Athens. Driving by Arachova town, the scenery of houses filling out the mountain slope was inescapable to the eye. I ordered the hubby to make a U-turn to his protest. "Must-have photo!" I exclaimed. With Arachova in the background, hubby ("the designated driver") had photo-op in his Greece shirt, standing next to the Jeep Renegade.
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| Eye-catching mountainscape in the town of Arachova |
6-nov: Last day in Athens...
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| Ancient Athens |
I did last minute souvenir shopping on the last day. I could not pass from purchasing a Grecian attire and a Greek leather backpack. How the sales lady knew I'd come back for that leather backpack, whilst looking at my eyes that morning which was foretelling. She said voicing on her intuition, "I will wait for you. We close at 10PM." Hubby was roasting chicken in the apartment; he went by the market that morning to buy ingredients, including special Greek spices, most of it to bring back home. While hubby cooked, he was also busy drinking a bottle of Ouzo he bought from the liquor store and did not want to go to waste, such was his excuse. Hubby asked if it was okay for me to return to the shop by myself, and given my familiarity with the route, from Monastiraki and past the Roman Agora to the shop, I said yes.
I must have spent more than an hour at the leather shop; I couldn't decide what backpack color to buy... there's yellow, green, blue, purple, orange... until I finally settled on the traditional color of brown leather, and after it got the stamp of approval by one customer, as well as bag modeling by the sales lady. By the cash register, meanwhile, the shop owner was exasperated at me. Really, who wouldn't be confused by so many colors to a leather backpack?!! When I got back to the apartment, hubby was sound asleep, snoring amidst the aroma from the roasted Greek-spiced chicken resting on the kitchen counter and still warm from the oven. I had lost my appetite, however, from purchasing a Greek leather backpack. Roasted chicken ended up being shredded up for chicken sandwiches in the morning, for the road.
7-nov: Landing Santorini...
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Photo with Thomas
of BestEU taxi |
Hubby had arranged for taxi service. #Bestaxi.eu's driver was Thomas, whom we dubbed the "Best Taxi Driver" of Athens. En route to the airport, Thomas gave us an impromptu tour up Mount Lycabettus (which we missed in Athens), as well as a crash course on the Greek language. Thanks, Thomas!
Flying domestic to next destination, #AegeanAirlines landed in the island of Santorini one hour later. Check-in: #VillaRenos, on Fira side of the island.
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| Santorini's feature caldera vista at Fira |
8-nov: Birthday girl on the roll... I awoke to an island view come daybreak. Kalimera! Santorini :) Sun's up! My special day is officially, begun. Birthday girl is on a roll! For starters, we had a power breakfast serving at the hotel balcony overlooking a dreamy Fira vista. Thanks, Villa Renos! Santorini surely feels like home.
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Room balcony
with a Fira view |
Could not have chosen a better location to experience Fira's feature - Caldera (inactive volcano), than at said villa, especially on a non-peak season in the island. Mobility and accessibility to essentials were top priority; it did not become an issue during the stay. Not to mention such convenience of hauling luggage to/from hotel given the labyrinth steps and pathways in the island. No donkeys were burdened by our luggage, as hotel entrance was a few steps down the shuttle van's drop-off point next to Fira church. Vassilis's (hotel owner) and staff's hospitality were but icing to the cake. Btw, Vassilis could easily pass for HRH, The Duke of York, any day*wink;)
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Photo with Vassilis
at Villa Renos |
My first impression on Santorini, it's a small island one could walk it from end to end easily. Wrong! When in Santorini, must-rent a means of transport to cover the sights-- Akrotiri, Pyrgos, Fira & Oia. Donkey ride is out of the question... have mercy and leave the poor donkey alone.
Hubby rented from #Tony'sRentACar (recommended by Vassilis.) Hubby was eyeing the ATV, but Vassilis had dissuaded him. It was extra windy and sunny, hubby and I would most likely turn to toast in an uncontrollable ATV on the road.
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| This way to Akrotiri... |
First stop, Akrotiri... Parked the rented Nissan Micra near Red Beach. Rock formation the color of burnt sienna sharply gazed down on us. I dared the hubby we hike our way to Red Beach. Halfway through in howling winds, hubby put his foot down to the hike, remembering the YouTube clip he had watched about falling rocks. Hubby's warning dented my adrenaline, as the Greek God of the winds sent more a-howling from the sea. I did not want to spoil my birthday getting injured, anyway. I turned around, and hubby and I safely returned to the parked car. Meanwhile, a couple in beach attire walked past us to hike up the route, barefoot. Just for the record, I went halfway to Red Beach.
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| Pyrgos aerial view to the ends of Oia in Santorini |
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| This way to Pyrgos... |
Straight to Pyrgos... for the next stop. From Akrotiri to Pyrgos, I drove the car, but don't tell Tony*wink;) Pyrgos, the unexplored area of Santorini, was deserted, except for a passing donkey carrying the coffee machine tied to its back as his master lead him the way. At Pyrgos was more labyrinth of whitewashed houses, with the iconic blue doors, up a hill. The labyrint pathways opened up to an aerial view of the island of Santorini all the way to the ends of Oia. Against stone, I wrote: "11/8/2016" with my name and hubby's, in a heart shape, to record our Pyrgos visit.
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| Movie set at Oia |
Three hours till sunset, and after caffeine fix at a Pyrgos cafe, hubby took back the wheel of the car (so, Tony can relax!), and drove to the last stop for the day... Oia. That Oia scene was better than the movies. I stepped right in an unmistakably familiar set-- the set location of the Philippine-film, "For The First Time".
By 4:26PM, I captured the Oia sunset for ending credits to my special day. Kalispera! Santorini :)
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| Santorini's sunset at Oia |
9-nov: Donkey trail... Walking the whitewashed Fira pathway, hubby chanced on a leather shop. There, hubby purchased his own Greek leather flap bag, after missing out buying one in Athens. Blame it on the Ouzo why he fell asleep for last-minute shopping back there. Bet you he only got green with envy to my Greek leather backpack, lol.
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| Santorini lifestyle in a dreamy island |
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| Donkey trail in Fira |
Down Karavolades Stairs to the Old Port in Fira where donkeys abound, you know what else can you find on the ground? Hubby and I must have gone crazy walking the zigzaggedly steps (which turned out to be a donkey trail - for a donkey ride), on foot for an hour tiptoeing around smelly donkey droppings, while cable cars visibly ran up and down between the Old Port and Fira. My bad mistaking the Old Port for that in Oia in an attempt to recreate a movie scene. Reaching finally what seemed to be the trail's end, where a drove of donkeys were resting, I feared I would get kicked by a donkey from behind walking past them to get to the waterfront...
Cable car ride up (main) Fira, from the Old Port, was non-negotiable. Only, strong winds kept swaying the cable car on the ride up, too scary for me I let out a scream!
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| No mistaking a Donkey Land on the pebbled trail down to the Old Port in Fira |
At day's end, I was sporting the so-called, "olive skin tone"... After eleven days of sunbathing (sic) under the Hellenic Sun, I reached the finish line to my Greece journey. Relaxing in a balcony jacuzzi, I (still) managed to capture one last Santorini sunset, this time, at Fira.
Opa, Greece!
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| Santorini's sunset at Fira |
